SAINT HELENA PRESS™ - Just all about the Islands of Saint Helena and Ascension and Tristan da Cunha

LITHOS FROM TRISTAN DA CUNHA - ROLAND SVENSSON

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Colors are not true

from these photos.

The archipelago of

Stockholm is Mr Svensson's

favourite motive.

The lithos can be found at Stockholm Galleries.

Mr Goran Eriksson can help you

ROLAND SVENSSON - ST HELENA IN THE 1960IES

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ROLAND SVENSSON

ARTISTS OF SAINT HELENA ISLAND AND TRISTAN DA CUNHA

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Islands of the South Atlantic Ocean has inspirered artists from all over the world to catch moments of islander's life as well as the nature on and around Ascension - St Helena and Tristan da Cunha.

We are proud to present the works of the Swedish artist Roland Svensson, the Dutch artist Rolf Weijburg and the Swiss artist (of St Helena origin) Iris Linsi.

Mr Roland Svensson, (1910-2003), gave us permission to publicise all his works from the islands of St Helena and Tristan da Cunha. Most of his works are in private hands. His paintings and lithos from the Stockholm Archipelago are highly approved in Sweden. His works from South Atlantic Islands are not knowned for the major public in Sweden.

During several years, Mr Rolf Weijburg travelled around the South Atlantic Ocean and also visited the Islands. His colour-etchings from Ascension-St Helena-Tristan is part of a series called "L'Afrique Périphérique", consisting of some 70 etchings from all of the islands around Africa.

Iris Linsi is a St Helena-born poet and painter now living in Switzerland. During a 4-months stay on St Helena in 1994 (the first visit since her childhood) she had a small exhibition. Now she is preparing a book (a 500 years history) and 12 paintings will illustrate her work.

With kind permissions from the artists.

SAINT HELENA IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC OCEAN

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Flag of Saint Helena

Saint Helena in the South Atlantic Ocean. More than 900.000 have visited this webpage since its unofficial start in May 1996. It is now established as one of the most popular for information on St Helena and Tristan da Cunha. This site is situated in Sweden and hence the extension .se. It is a non-profit-making website managed by volunteers who have an enduring interest in St Helena's social, political and environmental history and the island's current affairs.

The island has two museums. Longwood House, Napoleon's home during the last years of his life has exhibits which make it the best Napoleonic museum in the world.

The island's own excellent museum is managed by the Heritage Society. This museum is situated in Jamestown. It is the island's only town and retains many of the Georgian buildings built in the heyday of sailing ships. This museum overlooks the harbour where the East India Company’s ships anchored to rest their crews and take on fresh provisions. St Helena was a welcome port of call after many months at sea on the return voyage from India.

There are two National Parks. One helps protect some of the rare flora on the central ridges. Several of these species can only be found on St Helena. The second, at Sandy Bay on the southern coast, protects further rare native species and the spectacular geological structures which are a legacy of St Helena’s volcanic origins. Spectacular and beautiful landscapes are everywhere on St Helena, as the photographs on this website will testify. Both National Parks and several of the Protected Areas offer unique and idyllic landscapes for walking and photography.

Surveys and assessments of possible airport construction on the island have been made and are continuing. At present, the only way to visit the island is by the island's own ship. The Royal Mail Ship St Helena can be boarded at Cape Town, Walvis Bay or Ascension Island. Andrew Weir Shipping - www.aws.co.uk operates this ship for The St Helena Line.

SAINT HELENA

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SAINT HELENA

ARCHAEOLOGICAL OF SAINT HELENA

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Andy Pearson and Ben Jeffs, two of the Archaeologists here on the island at the moment, gave an update to Saint FM/Independent on what’s happening in Ruperts Valley.

Andy-The main thing is we’ve found a great deal more than we anticipated so we have a much larger team on the island now. We now see our work finished by the 15th September, which is our new departure date.

Ben-We’ve got an awful lot more manpower now, everything’s going extremely well at the moment, and we’ve more than a hundred bodies out of the ground now. There’s possibly as many as two hundred and fifty in all, just in the section that we’re lifting.

Andy-We’ve got significant areas which are still covered with rock which we’ve got to get rid of. Now, either that rock has prevented burial because it was just too hard to dig graves into, or, that rock’s much later than the burials and it seals them, so today we’ve got the JCB on site, we’re going to take off a large area of rocky surface and we’re going to see what’s below it and then we’ll just keep repeating the process until that whole section, where the haul road’s going to go through, has been cleared of burials. I think this is something that we need to put across; this is just a very small area of the whole cemetery. It extends, quite low in the valley and there are also quite large burial areas up towards the Quarantine Station. What we’re looking at is 1% to 3% of the total area. We are focused on the proposed haul road so we can clear that corridor.

Ben-There is somewhere between eight and twelve thousand in the whole valley, but that’s a bit uncertain. We’ve got some census data from the first nine years of the landings in Ruperts and there’s very nearly five thousand buried during those first nine years and it went on for thirty-something years in total, so there’s an awful lot there, but as Andy says, we’re only concentrating on the pinch point. The centre of the valley narrows anyway and there’s the Power Station, the Fuel Farm and then a gap. That gap is the only place that the haul road can go through and unfortunately that’s full of burials, so we’re just removing them from under there.

Exhumed remains are all individually boxed. When we excavate, we carefully clean so that we can identify each individual within the grave, because we’re getting up to five individuals per grave, so it can get quite confusing, but we very carefully make sure that we’ve only got one individual out, they get recorded, lifted and put into a large cardboard box, laid out carefully and flat on some padding, they then get put into safe storage. We’ve got an Osteologist, Anne-Sophie who is going to measure and examine all the bones, looking for age

and sex and whether there is any disease. We’ve had a fair bit come to light so far, the odd broken bone, little bits of malnutrition, rickets, bent lower legs, that sort of thing, but the most interesting bit of analysis that we’ve had so far is tribal tooth modification. The front two upper teeth have had a notch cut out of them, maybe in ten, fifteen percent of the burials we’ve seen that. Hopefully we can actually isolate that to a single tribe in a specific location in Africa. The same tribal teeth marks are used in South America today. Tooth modification is fairly common, but it’s a very specific pattern that we’ve got, it’s just a single, large notch out of the two front teeth. Somebody mentioned that it might be Malawian. There’s some eighteenth, nineteenth century pictures of locals from there with exactly the same pattern in their teeth.

Andy-So we’re hoping we can go back to either nineteenth century ethnographic data. Maybe these customs survive in the tribal heartlands in Africa. We’re hoping that we’ll be able to go back and identify the areas from where these individuals came. Research is made easier because we have the tooth indipatterns. Without these, scientific methods such as tooth analysis or DNA are necessary.

Ben-We’re getting few other clues. Because they’re slaves and anything valuable would have been stripped off the bodies and sold before they were sold into slavery. However a few burials include things like necklaces, glass bead necklaces with small shells cut in half and polished, but they’re pretty common across Africa. The main thing is the scientific analysis. We’re going to put a proposal together for Oxygenisotope analysis on the teeth, which allows you to locate origins almost down to the village location. Every water source in the world has a different ratio of two forms of oxygen and your teeth gradually grow to adulthood in layers. You can cut the tooth in half, polish it and then analyse each of those layers and by working out the ratio of the two forms of oxygen in those layers of the tooth and work out where they were drinking water at that period in their life.

We hope the proposals we are putting together for further scientific study will be accepted. Anne-Sophie will hopefully be coming back with another project to complete further research of this kind. We will go into a post excavation phase where we will be producing a report and getting all the illustrations of all of the burials sorted out and all of our data collated and of course, the burials will be re-buried. Hopefully we can get burial permits for somewhere in Ruperts. Andy- I feel quite strongly that the burials belong in Ruperts, that’s where they were originally laid to rest, that’s where their historical context is and where the other burials are. I think an area next to the present Church would be the logical place, but we’re still talking with the relevant St Helenian authorities. A lot of people have been coming to look and we’re happy for that to carry on, but the excavations will probably conclude within three or four weeks. So we thought we would have an Open Day. We were thinking of Sunday week for this. Sunday 17th August. We will firm up the details and advertise them next week. We want to show people what archaeology is, because little, if any, has been done on the Island before now. Also, it’s quite a sensitive subject, digging burials up, we would like to show how we’re doing it, just give people a good idea of how we go about this.

Ben-It is always an emotional thing digging up burials. You have to have a certain sense of detachment while you’re working. But you can’t be digging up human remains with hair and fingernails laid in the ground the way that they are without actually feeling this is a genuine human being laid out in front of you.

Recently we had a very small burial, certainly the youngest burial that we’ve had on site, it is a tiny, stillborn baby, probably not even full term, buried in a wooden coffin, which is the first coffin we’ve had on site. This baby also had a burial shroud. Usually they’re just put straight in the ground with no clothing or anything, but this was a particularly careful burial, a tiny little wooden coffin with almost a fetus inside; wrapped in

cloth with tiny little brass pins holding the cloth together and that’s particularly touching, because somebody’s actually gone to the trouble of building the coffin and putting it into the ground with some fair care and reverence.

open day

An open day was held on Sunday in Rupert’s Valley by the archaeological team excavating the graves of slaves in the area adjacent to the Mid-Valley Fuel Farm and on the proposed haul road. The archaeologists were on hand to give tours and to talk about the wider aspects of the project. Maps, diagrams and photographs of the site were also on display. Despite the variable weather, the open day proved a popular event and gave a fascinating insight into the history of Rupert’s Valley.

HIGH KNOLL FORT IN SAINT HELENA

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High Knoll Fort

High Knoll Fort was built on the site of an older fortification (1799), of which no sign remains. The fort's purpose was to cover the Ladder Hill fort and as a retreat in the event of the island being overrun by the enemy. High Knoll stand almost complete, with a dry moat and drawbridge, with signs of a portcullis, cisterns, magazines, storehouses, tower and embrasures with slit walls. Dates built into the stonework over the gate read 1874 and the southern wall 1878.

This Fort is one on the island's key heritage sites and because of its central location and fairly easy access it is very popular with visitors and islanders. It is one of the few remaining fortifications on St Helena that is in a fair state and not used for housing accommodation, stores or offices and therefore can be developed as a tourist attraction.

Unfortunately, two sections of the wall has now collapsed and the fort is sadly closed until funding can be secured to carry out a structural survey and rebuild the walls and any other restoration work that may be realised as a result of the survey.

High Knoll Fort is a prominent & majestic land mark with fantastic views of Half Tree Hollow and surrounding districts.

SAINT HELENA PROTECTED AREA PLAN FOR THE CENTRAL PEAKS 2007 - 2010

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Protected Area Plan for the Central Peaks 2007 - 2010

The Peaks Protected Area Plan (PAP) has been developed through a series of workshops facilitated by Dr Rebecca Cairns-Wicks. The work has been funded by the Overseas Territories Environment Programme (OTEP) jointly managed by the Department for International Development and the Foreign and Commonwealth Office.

The Peaks are a special place of outstanding natural and scenic beauty with their own unique mix of ancient and unusual plants and animals found nowhere else on earth. They are an important ‘asset' for the island as a place for education, recreation and tourism. In addition, water from springs and streams with catchments within the Peaks provides a significant proportion of the overall water supply for St Helena.

The plan establishes a framework for the management of the Peaks. It sets out the basic philosophy for the conservation and development of the Peaks and provides strategies for solving problems and achieving identified management objectives over a 15 - year period (under a three year rolling plan).

The Vision for the Central Peaks is "for St Helena to manage and restore the native habitats and species of the Peaks, valued by present and future generations for recreation, education, tourism, and water catchment."

Download the executive summary here, or for further details on the plan please contact:

St Helena National Trust: sth.nattrust@helanta.sh or Agricultural & Natural Resources Department (ANRD): CANRO@anrd.gov.sh

ESSENTIAL SERVICES OF SAINT HELENA

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Banking

Banking services on St. Helena and Ascension Island are provided by the Bank of St. Helena, which is located in the Market Square, Jamestown.

Services available to visitors include the encashment of travellers cheques at a 2% charge and the exchange of banknotes in Sterling, US Dollars, Euro and South African Rand. Customers can also obtain cash advances on major credit cards, and UK clearing bank customers can encash UK bank cheques, up to the limit of the applicable cheque guarantee card.

Charges applicable to these services are advertised in the bank.

Click here for more details about the Bank of St. Helena and current rates and fees.

Business Hours

Businesses opening hours, unless otherwise stated, are usually from 8:30am - 4.00pm Mondays to Fridays.

Car Rentals

It is HIGHLY recommended that you book in advance as it can be difficult to book a car once on the Island because of the great demand not only from visitors but Saints (St Helenians) as well.

Car hire can be arranged via St Helena Tourism Enquiries desk or through Reservations at Andrew Weir Shipping. Visitors must hold and bring with them a valid driving licence with no endorsements for dangerous driving or drunken driving in the last 5 years and must be 21 years and over (restrictions may be imposed by some companies in respect of the upper age limit).

Car Hire costs from GBP10.00 - GBP15.00 per day. This rate includes insurance however, any minor damages e.g. broken headlight, wing-mirror, etc, will have to be paid for by the client. Before driving, the hirer must register at the Police Station in Jamestown where they record details of your Driver's Licence.

To book a car, please contact:

St Helena Tourism Enquiries Desk:

St Helena Tourism

Main Street

Jamestown

St Helena Island

SAO

STHL 1ZZ

Tel: + (290) 2158

Fax: + (290) 2159

E: enquiries@tourism.gov.sh

Reservations, Andrew Weir Shipping:

Andrew Weir Shipping Ltd

Dexter House,

2 Royal Mint Court

London, EC3N 4XX

Tel: + 44 (0) 20 7575 6480

Fax: + 44 (0) 20 7575 8200

E: reservation@aws.co.uk
Clothing

Casual informal clothing is appropriate; however it is advisable to bring a jersey and light-weight rain jacket, and good walking shoes if you are contemplating doing any of our interesting walks. Semi-formal clothing is also suggested for some evenings.
Communications

Cable & Wireless is the telecommunications provider for St Helena, offering services such as International Direct Dialing, Internet & Email Facilities, Information Service, Facsimile, Television, Flexible Access and National and Internatioal telephone. Phone cards can be obtained from the Cable & Wireless Office Customer Care Centre or Warren's shop, Wellington House Hotel, Anne's Place and the Consulate Hotelr in Jamestown and various country outlets. Phone booths are located in Jamestown and the country districts. Collect calls are possible to United Kingdom and Ascension Island.

A public internet bureau with WiFi facilities is available at Ann's Place, Castle Gardens, Jamestown.

Currency

St Helena Pounds is used on the island and the St Helena pound is fixed at parity with British Pound Sterling, which is accepted on the island.

NB: Scottish banknotes are accepted however, Scottish coins/change are not accepted.

Customs

St Helena is not a duty-free port.

Duty Free Allowance

Visitors arriving in St Helena may bring with them the following:
(a) Spirits, strong liqueurs over 22% volume, 1 litre and Wine x 2 litres, or Beer/Lager 340 bottle/cans 12 bottles/cans
(b) Perfumed spirits & toilet water not exceeding 250 ml
(c) Cigarettes not exceeding 200, or
(d) Other tobacco goods not exceeding in all 250 grams

Persons under the age of 18 years cannot claim the duty free allowance of alcoholic liquors and persons under the age of 16 years cannot claim the duty free allowance of cigarettes and other tobacco goods.

Prohibited Goods

(a) Firearms and ammunition unless accompanied by a valid license.
(b) Obscene items or pornographic literature, films or video tapes.
(c) Fruit, vegetables and plant material unless accompanied by an import permit issued by the Chief Agricultural & Natural Resources Officer, St Helena and phytosanitary and export inspection certificates from the country of origin.
(d) Animals unless accompanied by a permit issued by the Chief Agricultural & Natural Resources Officer, St Helena.

Further information can be obtained from Customs on tel +290 2287; fax +290 2949; or email: snr.customsofficer@cwimail.sh

Animals, Fruit & VegetablesIt is important to make arrangements well in advance of your departure date if you wish to bring animals, fruit or vegetables to the island. The law prohibits the importation of animals, plants, fruit and vegetables without prior approval and documentation from the Chief Agricultural & Natural Resources Officer, tel + 290 4724; fax + 290 4603; or email: CANRO@anrd.gov.sh

Driving

Most roads are single lane. Etiquette requires the driver coming down to make way for up-coming traffic. Drive on the left-hand side of the road. The drink drive laws are strictly applied with a limit of 50µg of alcohol per 100ml of breath. The safest course is not to Drink and Drive.

Speed Limits: Unless otherwise stated, normal speed limits are 30mph. Road signs are shown in miles per hour and not kilometres per hour. In Jamestown the speed limit is 20mph.

Petrol and diesel can also be bought from Solomon's Fuel Station, Jamestown; Half Tree Hollow Spar and Longwood Supermarket.

Eating out

There is a variety of St Helena local dishes for the visitors to enjoy such as fishcakes, black puddings, pilau, coconut fingers, pumpkin pudding and pumpkin fritters. For more information visit the tourist office and pick up a ‘Let's Eat' leaflet. Visitors are advised to book in advance at one of the local eating places for evening meals.
Electricity

The electricity supply on St Helena is 240V, 50Hz. The standard electrical socket is the 13-amp flat pin as used in the United Kingdom.
Emergencies

In case of emergency, dial 911 for Ambulance and 999 for Police, Fire or Sea Rescue.

Entry Requirements

All visitors must have valid passports. Return tickets and pre-booked accommodation.

Visitor's Pass

A fee of £12.00 is payable for all visitors over twelve years disembarking at St Helena. A Visitors Pass will normally be issued for a period of one month, although this may be renewed for stays up to three months. Remember to have proof of your medical insurance with you if you intend staying longer than 48 hours.

Entry Permit

Visitors envisaging a stay of over three months are advised to consider applying for an Entry Permit, which can be issued for a period of up to five years, especially where the applicant has a spouse or common law partner with St Helenian status. Applications for an Entry Permit should be submitted to the Secretary of the Immigration Control Board, tel. + 290 2470; fax. + 290 2598; or email: cofcouncils@sainthelena.gov.sh If the Entry Permit is granted, visitors will be required to pay a fee of £20.00 per annum.

Immigration

The St Helena Government welcomes visitors and, subject to certain conditions, those who intend to make their future lives on the Island, particularly those married to or in a stable long-term relationship with a resident with 'St Helenian status'. For further information, please contact the Immigration Officer, tel. + 290 2626; fax + 290 2096; or email: Immigration1@police.gov.sh

Insurance

Before leaving home you should arrange travel, personal accident, additional medical insurance and baggage insurance to cover the journey. You will be asked to produce proof of medical insurance by the Immigration Officer if you intend to stay longer than 48 hours, please remember to have it with your passport.

Language

English is the only language spoken on St Helena, although most St Helenians speak their own dialect of the English language.

Location

St Helena is situated in the South Atlantic Ocean, 5° 43' west and 15° 56' south, 1,200 miles (1,950km) from the south-west coast of Africa, and 1,800 miles (2,900km) from the coast of South America. The nearest land is Ascension Island, which lies 703 miles (1,125km) to the north-west. The Island is 47 square miles (122 square km), ten and a half miles (17km) long and six and a half miles (10km) wide.

Marriage

Those wishing to marry on St Helena should contact our Legal & Land Planning Department, tel. + 290 2270; fax. + 290 2454; or email: clerk@legalandlands.gov.sh

Medical Care

There is a small (54 beds) modern, well-equipped General Hospital, a Dental Surgery and a Community Clinic in Jamestown. There are also six rural health clinics around the island, regularly visited by the doctors, dentist and community nurses.

There is no National Health Service and local residents pay for all medical treatment. Rates for medical and dental attention are divided into three rates for: Non United Kingdom residents, United Kingdom residents and residents rates. Please contact Tourist Office for further information on medical and dental fees and charges.

Population

The population of St Helena is 5,000, mainly descendants of British settlers, East India Company employees and slaves from the South Asian sub-Continent, the East Indies and Madagascar as well as Chinese indentured labourers. The capital and only town is Jamestown, with a population of 884. The other main districts of population are Longwood and Half Tree Hollow.

Postal Service

The main Post Office is in Main Street, Jamestown. All districts have a sub-Post Office operating in a general store or grocery shop. Postage stamps are available from the main Post Office, sub-Post Offices and Warren's, Main Street, Jamestown. Overseas post is operated via the RMS St Helena. There is no door-to-door delivery available so mail should be collected from your area's assigned outlet (check with the main Post Office in Jamestown about this). The Post Office will receive mail for you providing it is addressed Poste Restante where it can then be collected from the main Post Office. Postal information line telephone 6099.

Public Library

The St Helena public library is the oldest in the Southern Hemisphere. Visitors may borrow up to four (4) books at a time on deposit of £10 which will be refunded on the return of all books borrowed. Check with St Helena Tourism Enquiries Desk for opening times.

Pubs

Opening times for pubs and clubs vary. Most pubs open Mondays to Saturdays: from 11:00am - 11:00pm or after. Some pubs/clubs are also open on a Sunday, (times will vary depending on pub/club), normal hours are from noon until 2:00pm or from 5:00pm until 1:30pm. Alcoholic beverages cannot be consumed on the streets of Jamestown.

Check the weekly newspapers for published times and events. The Herald or The Independent

Radio broadcasting

Saint FM provides a local radio service for the island which is also available on Internet Radio and relayed in Ascension Island and the Falkland Islands.

Radio Saint Helena provides a local radio service that has a range of about 100 km from the island, and also broadcasts internationally on Amateur Radio Wavelengths on one day a year.

Religion

Christianity has deep roots in St Helena and has played a symbolic part in the island's community, the majority of people belonging to the Church of England, being members of the Diocese of St Helena, which includes Ascension Island, and which has its own Bishop residing on St Helena.

Other denominations of Christianity represented on the island for many years are: Roman Catholic, Salvation Army, Baptist, and in more recent times; Seventh Day Adventist, Jehovah's Witness and New Apostolic.

The Baha'i Faith has also been represented on the island in more recent times.

These all have one or more buildings set apart for worship. The members of the ‘Two by Two' Christian Group meets for worship in private homes. Visitors are welcomed by all of these Religious Groups.

Details of church services are published in the weekly St Helena Herald

Seaport

Jamestown is the only port on St Helena. The harbour consists of an open roadstead with three anchorages. Vessels of any size can use the anchorage. Passengers can be ferried by ships' tenders or local boats.

Shopping

Local crafts and souvernirs on St Helena can be bought from the Art & Craft Shop in Jamestown, Abiwans, SHAPE at Sandy Bay, Serena's Gift Shop, the Museum gift shop, Warren's and other shops in Jamestown. Special items of craft can also be purchased from the individual producer. Souvenirs, such as T-Shirts, Caps, Key-rings, etc are on sale in a number of shops in Jamestown. St Helena stamps or First Day Covers make excellent souvenirs of St Helena, and can be found at the Post Offcie in Main Street.

Shop Hours

Most shops in Jamestown usually open:

9:00am - 5:00pm Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays & Fridays

9:00am - 1:00pm Wednesdays,

9:00am - 1:00pm & 6:30pm - 8:30pm Saturdays.

Some shops also open late on Friday evenings and on Wednesday afternoons. All shops are closed on Sundays, except when there is a cruise ship in port.

St Helena Coffee

The rare and tasteful St. Helena Coffee can be bought on St. Helena from either of the following retailers: Wellington shop, The Star, Warrens, the St. Helena Coffee shop at the Seafront or Farm Lodge Country House Hotel.

Taxis

Details of taxis can be found in the telephone directory, at the Tourist Office or at your accommodation. Taxis do not have meters and rates should be checked before the journey. There is also a taxi rank in Jamestown.

Time

Greenwich Mean Time all year round.

Tipping

Tipping is very much the individual's choice according to service. A tip of around 10% is standard.

Travellers HELP

Assistance or advice is available Mon - Fri 8:30am - 4pm, and 10am - 1pm on Saturdays from our Tourist Office located at:

The Canister, Main Street, Jamestown. Tel: + (290) 2158, Fax: + (290) 2159, or email enquiries@tourism.gov.sh

Transport

The public transport system on St Helena is fairly new and has a very limited service. However, visitors have the option of booking tours through the Tourist Office, car rental or taxis. See Getting Around for more information.

Travel

St Helena has no airport as yet therefore the only mode of travel is by ship. The RMS St Helena provides a regular service from the United Kingdom (via Tenerife and Ascension Island) and from Cape Town, South Africa. Visit the RMS St Helena website to find out more. Travel booking information can be obtained from:

Andrew Weir Shipping Ltd.

17th floor,

No. 1 Thibault Square,

Cape Town, South Africa.

Tel.: +27-21-4251165

Fax: +27-21-4217485

Email: sthelenaline@mweb.co.za

Andrew Weir Shipping Ltd

Dexter House,

2 Royal Mint Court

London, EC3N 4xx

Tel: + 44 (0) 20 7575 6480

Fax: + 44 (0) 20 7575 8200

Email: reservations@aws.co.uk

Andrew Weir Shipping Ltd.

PO Box 3233

Walvis Bay

Namibia

Tel: +264 64 220495

Fax: +264 64 220496

Email: sthelena@iway.na

CULTURE: TRADITIONS AND CUSTOMS OF SAINT HELENA

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Events & Festivities

St. Helena Day, 21st May, is a Public Holiday and is celebrated by all. It was on this day in 1502 that the Island was discovered and so-named as it was the birthday of Saint Helena, the mother of Constantine the Great. Celebrations on this day take many forms and are usually held at the one location so it is a good way of experiencing a taste of our culture all in the one day!

Festive seasons such as Christmas and Easter are celebrated in a very unique way. Christmas Eve is seen as a huge party night and includes ‘dancing down the street' (festive street parade) from the top of Jamestown to Market Street. The traditional Christmas Day lunch/dinner takes place and there are ‘house crawls' normally in Jamestown on this day where groups of friends and family visit each other's house to wish them a Merry Christmas and to have few laughs and maybe sing a song or two...so expect to hear a lot of merry-making in the street on this day!

There are also a variety of festivals: Walking Festival is held biennially and consists of a week's programme of walks to suit every walker, whether you are a beginner or a seasoned hiker.

The Festival of Running is also held in the same years as the Walking Festival and attracts many participants from overseas as well as locals. The Festival of Arts & Culture is also a biennial event and highlights St Helena's people and culture with a two-week programme of activities and events. See the events page for dates.

Church Parades, where the Scouts and Girl Guides march in Jamestown, takes place every 4th Sunday in the month and on Patron Saint Days, On Remembrance Sunday, these youth organisations are joined with the Church Lads Brigade, the Police, and other societies/institutes.

Scout's Sports Day is a yearly event which raises money for the Scout's Group. It is hosted at the ‘Mule Yard' at the Seafront during the August Bank Holiday weekend (which occurs on the last week in August). Scout's Sports Day organises activities for kids, food stalls, bar, music and side shows.

Music

As varied as our ancestry is, the same is true of our music taste! Country & folk music is popular with the older generations, the younger community is greatly influenced by hip hop & r&b music, and the dance & club genre is growing as well as new age and contemporary music. Music is influenced by TV, radio, and internet.

Locally produced music is growing and ranges from country to rock. There are local bands that perform occasionally and some produce their own CD's which is available to buy at some of the local shops and online.

For those music enthusiasts among you, you might want to read ‘For the Love of the Music' by Emma-Jane Yon. Written by a St Helenian, it details our musical history and is available to buy from some local shops.

Religion

Christianity has deep roots in St Helena and has played a symbolic part in the island's community, the majority of people belonging to the Church of England, being members of the Diocese of St Helena, which includes Ascension Island, and which has its own Bishop residing on St Helena.

Other denominations of Christianity represented on the island for many years are: Roman Catholic, Salvation Army, Baptist, and in more recent times; Seventh Day Adventist, Jehovah's Witness and New Apostolic.

The Baha'i Faith has also been represented on the island in more recent times.

These all have one or more buildings set apart for worship. The members of the ‘Two by Two' Christian Group meets for worship in private homes. Visitors are welcomed by all of these Religious Groups.

Details of church services are published in the weekly St Helena Herald

Food & Drink

‘Saint' food is partly influenced by Malay, British, and Chinese, with regard to methods and some of the ingredients used.

Fish is a staple on St. Helena and used in various ways: fish cakes, curries, roasted fish, soups and much more.

The island's traditional dishes have a bit of a twist which makes them unique. Spices and curries are common, and rice dishes such as Pilau (pronounced plo) originates from South East Asia, but has its own curried twist! Read more here.
Art & Crafts

Saints are very resourceful and we can turn our hand to almost anything! Our crafts are worked in mainly lace, seeds (from the ‘Thorn' and ‘Casherseed' (Acacia) trees which grows abundantly around the Island), aloe and wood. We also dabble in a bit of painting, photography, pottery...just about anything really! Art pieces and crafts can be bought from select stores on the Island.

CLIMATE OF SAINT HELENA

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The climate of St Helena is controlled by the South Atlantic High Pressure Cell and the Equatorial Trough. Despite the island's locality within the tropics, its climate is kept mild and equable by the south east trade winds. The Trade Winds blow from high to low almost continuously making our weather so changeable, a dull rainy morning can often lead onto a bright sunny afternoon.

SEASONS

The four seasons are not recognised on St Helena, as there are no drastic weather patterns. The hottest months are between January and March. The coldest are between June and September.

For much of the year, temperatures remain between 70-80°F (20-27°C) but nights and early mornings can get colder in the months of June, July and August.

Rainy Season: Rains usually fall from late March to early May, with April being the height of the rainy season and again in July to September, with August being the height of the rainy season.

Temperatures in Jamestown range between 20° C - 32º C in the summer and 15° C - 26° C in the winter. The temperatures in the central areas are, on average, 5 - 6 degrees lower, which is why there are noticeable contrasts in climate between Jamestown and the country areas. Jamestown can be sunny and lightly humid whilst areas like Longwood experience chilly mists and a higher rainfall.

There is only one word to describe the sunsets on St Helena: spectacular. The romantic sunsets can be best viewed from the coast or high inland areas.

SAINT HELENA

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SAINT HELENA

GOVERNOR HOUSE OF SAINT HELENA

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Turtle Jonathan was 178 years old in 2004!

The Mansion of the Governor of St Helena, Ascension and Tristan de Cunha Islands. They let me caress Jonathan. The Governor wife was from Honduras. They came with us in the ship ST HELENA to Cape Town because they were sent to the UK Embassy in South Africa.

NAPOLEON TOMB IN SAINT HELENA

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French soldiers in St SHelena-Saint Helena Island

Several years ago the French Army landed in St Helena to pay homage to the tomb of Napoleon (he died in St. Helena, but presently the tomb is empty. French took his body to the Hotel des Invalides, in Paris).

I spent my first night in St Helena in my sleeping bag besides the tomb, but the second I was compelled to look for a hostel, since the police do not allow camping in the island. They had been looking for me and asking to the local people all the night, until the found me the next day when I entered a cafeteria in Jamestown to drink hot coffee.

SAINT HELENA PEOPLE AND GENERAL

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JAMESTOWN CITY

It is very hard to reach St. Helena. The only regular ship, ST.HELENA, is very often full with natives going back home from London or from Cape Town, and they have priority in the ship. I was one of the few foreign passengers in the last journey of the boat ST. HELENA in September 2004, from England to Saint Helena Island. After that trip, the ship will remain in Africa with the following itinerary: Ascension - St. Helena - Swakopmund - Cape Town. And once a year it will call Tristan da Cunha Island, in the South Atlantic. You can also get into St. Helena Island flying first to Ascension, from Norton Brize, in England, and then wait for the ship ST. HELENA. Sometimes there are cruises coming or going to Antarctica which call in St. Helena and Ascension Island. Life on board ST. HELENA is luxurious, with plenty of good food, shows, lectures, captain cocktail parties, etc. There are films, a good library, cafeteria, etc. In Saint Helena Island is compulsory to book a hotel upon your arrival in Jamestown, otherwise, in theory, the police can send you back to the ship. Life is not expensive in the island. You can find business lunch for about 5 English pounds. Internet is expensive and there are only two places for that: the main Post Office in Jamestown and the hotel in front. Hitch hiking is great and people will give you a lift immediately. You can also rent a car or take buses to move around the island. The island is beautiful, mountainous and very green. The best (and only) purchases in St. Helena are: coffee (very good quality) and original stamps for the philatelic. There is only an anglican church in Jamestown (the catholic is empty and without priests), one more protestant and a small bahai community.

There is a fortress in the middle of the island, and the house where Napoleon lived, in Longwood, today a museum. Also deserves attention the house of the French Consulate, outside of Jamestown.

The ship ST. HELENA stops for a few hours in Georgetown, in the Island of Ascension, with a population of about 500 people. It is arid, volcanic, and there are military bases. You can get cheap accommodations in private houses. Please, ask in Jamestown, in the Torist Information Office. They are very helpful and will introduce you probably to their familiars to rent you a room.

Private houses are better than hotels. People are very hospitalary and will furnish you lots of anecdots about Napoleon erotic life in the island. In the port, alter passing through the gate, there is at the left of a park with a big garden a very nice restaurant with terrace where they serve local food for a few pounds. In Jamestown you can climb up the hill through the over 500 steps. The view up there is spectacular.

JAMESTOWN, THE CAPITAL OF SAINT HELENA

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SAINT HELENA PORT IN JAMESTOWN

JAMESTOWN CITY

THE BARN MOUNT

MAPS END FLAG OF SAINT HELENA

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SAINT HELENA SATELITE MAP

SAINT HELENA FLAG

TOURIST MAP OF SAINT HELENA

MAP OF SAINT HELENA

TRISTÃO DA CUNHA ISLAND

TRANSPORT AND TELECOMMUNICATIONS OF SAINT HELENA

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JAMESTOWN

Saint Helena are among some of the most remote islands in the world. Saint Helena and Tristan da Cunha can only be reached by boat. The RMS Saint Helena runs between the United Kingdom, Ascension, St Helena and Cape Town. It no longer calls at Tristan da Cunha. However, the RMS Saint Helena is due for decommissioning in 2010 and may be partly replaced by a newly built airfield on Saint Helena Island. A large military airfield is located on Ascension Island, with weekly flights to RAF Brize Norton, England. These RAF flights offer a limited number of seats to civilians.

After long periods of rumours and consultation, the British Government announced plans to construct an airport in Saint Helena in March 2005 and the airport was originally expected to be completed by 2010. However constant delays by the British Government meant an approved bidder, the Italian firm Impreglio, was not chosen until 2008, and then the project was officially 'paused' in November 2008, allegedly due to new financial pressures brought on by the credit-crunch. As of January 2009, construction has not yet commenced, and no final contracts have been signed, and Governor Andrew Gurr departed for London on January 14 in an attempt to try and speed up the process and solve the problems. Even if the go-ahead is given in the early part of 2009, the airport will not now be completed until at least 2017.

A minibus offers a basic service to carry people around Saint Helena, with most services designed to take people into Jamestown for a few hours on weekdays to conduct their business.
Radio broadcasting
SaintFMprovides a local radio service for the island which is also available on Internet Radio and relayed in Ascension Island and the Falkland Islands. Radio St Helena provides a local radio service that has a range of about 100 km from the island, and also broadcasts internationally on Shortwave Radio (11092.5 kHz) on one day a year.

Internet
Saint Helena has a 4/2 Mbit/s internet link via Cable and Wireless International UK.

Local newspapers
The island has two local newspapers, both of which are available on the internet. The St Helena Independent and the St Helena Herald.

Culture and society
Education is free and compulsory between the ages of 5 and 15. There is no tertiary education institution in Saint Helena. Saint Helena is a member of the International Island Games Association.

ECONOMY OF SAINT HELENA

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JAMESTOWN

SATELITE IMAGE ISLAND

Much of the data for the following text has been sourced from the Government of St Helena Sustainable Development Plan. The public sector dominates the economy accounting for about half of GDP. Quoted at constant 2002 prices, the latter fell from £12.4 million in 1999/2000 to £11.2 million in 2005/6. Imports are mainly from the UK and South Africa and amounted to £6.4 million in 2004/5 (quoted on an FOB basis). Exports are much smaller, amounting to £0.24 million in 2004/5. Exports mainly comprise fish and coffee. Philatelic sales were £0.06 million that year. The limited number of visiting tourists spent about £0.43 million in 2004/05, representing a contribution to GDP of 3.1%.

Public expenditure rose from £10.2 million in 2001/02 to £12.3 million in 2005/06. The contribution of UK budgetary aid to total SHG government expenditure rose from £4.6 million in to £6.4 million over the same period. Wages and salaries represent about 38% of recurrent expenditure. The population has steadily declined since the late 1980s and has dropped from 5,157 at the 1998 census to 4,255 in 2008. In the past emigration was characterised by young unaccompanied persons leaving to work on long-term contracts on Ascension and the Falkland Islands, but since Saints were re-awarded UK citizenship in 2002, emigration to the UK by a wider range of wage-earners has accelerated due to the prospect of higher wages and better progression prospects.

Unemployment levels are low (50 in 2004 compared with 342 in 1998). The economy is dominated by the public sector, the number of government positions only falling slightly from 1,163 in 2002 to 1,142 in 2006. Public sector employment is characterised by high turnover rates, mainly due to outmigration. St Helena’s private sector employs approximately 45 per cent of the employed labour force and is largely dominated by small and micro businesses with 218 private businesses employing 886 in 2004.

Three hotels operate on the island but since the arrival of tourists is directly linked to the arrival and departure schedule of the RMS, occupancy levels are very low at about 10%. Some 1,180 short and long-term visitors arrived on the island in 2005. Household survey results suggest that the percentage of households who spend less than £20 per week on a per capita basis fell from 27% to 8% between 2000 and 2004, implying a decline in income poverty. Nevertheless, 22% of the population claimed social security benefit in 2006/7, although most of these are aged over 60 – this sector represents 20% of the population.

Inflation was running at 3.6% in 2005 but is thought to be much higher today, reflecting recent increases in the cost of fuel, power and all imported goods. The island had a monocrop economy until 1966, based on the cultivation and processing of New Zealand flax for rope and string. St Helena's economy is now very weak, and the island is almost entirely sustained by aid from London.

The Saint Helena tourist industry is heavily based around the promotion of Napoleon's imprisonment. A golf course also exists and the possibility for sportfishing tourism is great. Saint Helena also produces what is said to be the most expensive coffee in the world. Ascension Island, Tristan da Cunha and Saint Helena all issue their own postage stamps which provide a significant income.

Saint Helena also produces and exports Tungi Spirit, made from the fruit of the prickly or cactus pears, Opuntia ficus-indica. Tungi is the local St Helenian name for the prickly or cactus pear. The Saint Helena pound is the local currency, and is on a par with the Pound Sterling. The government of Saint Helena produces its own coinage and banknotes. In 1821, Saul Solomon issued a token copper currency of 70,560 halfpennies Payable at St Helena by Solomon, Dickson and Taylor—presumably London partners—which circulated alongside the East India Company's local coinage until the Crown took over the Island in 1836. The coin remains readily available to collectors. The territory has its own bank, the Bank of St. Helena, which has two branches in Jamestown on Saint Helena, and Georgetown, Ascension Island.

DEMOGRAPHICS OF SAINT HELENA

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DEMOGRAPHICS OF SAINT HELENA

Saint Helena has a small population of about 4,250 inhabitants, mainly descended from people from Britain – settlers (“planters”) and soldiers - and slaves who were brought there from the beginning of settlement – initially from Africa (Cape Verde Islands, Gold Coast and West Coast of Africa are mentioned in early records), then India, Madagascar, over the years until the planters felt there were too many and no new slaves were imported after 1792. The island was first settled by the British in 1659. In 1840 St. Helena became the Centre for the British West Africa Squadron, preventing slavery to Brazil mainly and many thousands were freed on the island. These were all African, and about 500 stayed there while the rest were sent on to the West Indies and Cape Town, and eventually to Sierra Leone.

Imported Chinese labourers arrived in 1810, reaching a peak of 618 in 1818, after which numbers were reduced, and only a few older men remained after the Crown took over in 1834, when the majority of those still here were sent back to China, although records in the Cape suggest that they never got any further than Cape Town. There were also a very few Indian Lascars who worked under the harbour master.

Christianity has deep roots in St Helena and has played a symbolic part in the island's community, the majority of people belonging to the Church of England, being members of the Diocese of St Helena, which includes Ascension Island, and which has its own Bishop residing on St Helena. The 150th Anniversary of the Diocese was celebrated in June 2009. Other denominations of Christianity represented on the island for many years are: Roman Catholic (since 1852), Salvation Army (since 1886), Baptist (since 1845), and in more recent times; Seventh Day Adventist (since 1949), Jehovah's Witness and New Apostolic. The Baha'i Faith has also been represented on the island since 1954.

Tristan da Cunha, settled since 1815, has a population of fewer than three hundred inhabitants of mainly British, Italian and St. Helenian descent. Christianity is the main religion, mainly Anglican and some Roman Catholic.

Ascension Island has no native inhabitants. It is a working island with a transient population of approximately 1,000, made up mainly of members of the American and British militaries supporting civilian contractors who serve on the joint Anglo-American airbase, and members of their families (a few of whom were born on the island), also Cable and Wireless and local Government employees.

The citizens of Saint Helena hold British Overseas Territories citizenship. On 21 May 2002, they were granted access to full British citizenship by the British Overseas Territories Act 2002. Also see British nationality law. During periods of unemployment, there has been a long pattern of emigration from the island since the post-Napoleonic period. The majority of Saints emigrated to the UK, South Africa, and in the early years, Australia. Nowadays many go to work on Ascension, the Falklands (only since the Falklands war) and UK. Saint Helena is one of the few territories in the world which has never had a recorded HIV / AIDS case.

POLITICS OF SAINT HELENA

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JAMESTOWN, CAPITAL OF SAINT HELENA

Executive authority in Saint Helena is invested in Queen Elizabeth II and is exercised on her behalf by the Governor of Saint Helena. The Governor is appointed by the Queen on the advice of the British Government. Defence and Foreign Affairs remain the responsibility of the United Kingdom. There are fifteen seats in the Legislative Council, a unicameral legislature. Twelve of the fifteen members are elected in elections held every four years. The other three members are the Governor and two ex officio officers. The Executive Council consists of the Governor, two ex officio officers, and six elected members of the Legislative Council appointed by the Governor. There is no elected Chief Minister, and the Governor acts as the head of government. The current Governor, since November 2007, is Andrew Gurr, who succeeded Michael Clancy. Both Ascension Island and Tristan da Cunha have an Administrator appointed to represent the Governor of Saint Helena.

GEOGRAPHY OF SAINT HELENA

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Districts of Saint Helena

Saint Helena
Saint Helena island has a total area of 122 km2 (47 mi2), and is composed largely of rugged, volcanic terrain. There are several rocks and islets off the coast, including: Castle Rock, Speery Island, The Needle, Lower Black Rock, Upper Black Rock (South), Bird Island (Southwest), Black Rock, Thompson's Valley Island, Peaked Island, Egg Island, Lady's Chair, Lighter Rock (West), Long Ledge (Northwest), Shore Island, George Island, Rough Rock Island, Flat Rock (East), The Buoys, Sandy Bay Island, The Chimney, White Bird Island and Frightus Rock (Southeast), all of which are within one kilometre of the shore. The centre of Saint Helena is covered by forest, of which some has been planted, including the new Millennium Forest Project. The temperature is also two to three degrees cooler in the highlands, and it has heavier and more reliable rainfall than the rest of the island. It contains most of the island's endemic flora, fauna, insects and birds. The coastal areas are barren, covered in volcanic rock and are warmer and drier than the centre of the island. The highest point of the island is Diana's Peak.

When the island was discovered, it was covered with unique (indigenous) vegetation, including a remarkable cabbage tree species. The flora of Saint Helena contains a high proportion of endemic species. The island's hinterland must have been a dense tropical forest but the coastal areas were probably quite green as well. The modern landscape is very different, with widespread bare rock in the lower areas, although inland it is green, mainly due to introduced vegetation. The dramatic change in landscape must be attributed to the introduction of goats and the introduction of new vegetation. As a result, the string tree (Acalypha rubrinervis) and the St Helena olive (Nesiota elliptica) are now extinct, and many of the other endemic plants are threatened with extinction.

Other Atlantic islands
The island is associated with two other isolated landmasses in southern Atlantic, also British territories—Ascension Island to the north in an equatorial position and Tristan da Cunha, which is outside the tropics to the south.

Isolation
Saint Helena is one of the most isolated places in the world, located more than 2,000 km (1,200 mi) from the nearest major landmass. As there is currently no airport on Saint Helena, travel to the island is by ship only. The RMS Saint Helena berths in James Bay approximately thirty times per year. The ship calls on such other ports as Cape Town, Ascension Island, Tenerife, Vigo, Walvis Bay and Isle of Portland, UK.

HISTORY OF SAINT HELENA

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Flag of saint Helena

Early history, 1502–1658
Most historical accounts state the island was discovered on 21 May 1502 by the Galician navigator João da Nova sailing at the service of the Portuguese Crown, on his voyage home from India, and that he named it "Santa Helena" after Helena of Constantinople. Given this is the feast day used by the Greek Orthodox Church, it has been argued that the discovery was probably made on 18 August, the feast day used by the Roman Catholic Church.

It has also been suggested that the island may not have been discovered until 30 July 1503 by a squadron under the command of Estêvão da Gama and that da Nova actually discovered Tristan da Cunha on the feast day of St Helena. The Portuguese found it uninhabited, with an abundance of trees and fresh water. They imported livestock (mainly goats), fruit trees, and vegetables, built a chapel and one or two houses, and left their sick, suffering from scurvy and other ailments, to be taken home, if they recovered, by the next ship, but they formed no permanent settlement. The island thereby became crucially important for the collection of food and as a rendezvous point for homebound voyages from Asia. The island was directly in line with the Trade Winds which took ships rounding the Cape of Good Hope into the South Atlantic. St Helena was much less frequently visited by Asia-bound ships, the northern trade winds taking ships towards the South American continent rather than the island.

It is a popular belief that the Portuguese managed to keep the location of this remote island a secret until almost the end of the 16th century. However, both the location of the island and its name were quoted in a Dutch book in 1508, that described a 1505 Portuguese expedition led by Francisco de Almeida from the East Indies: "[o]n the twenty-first day of July we saw land, and it was an island lyng six hundred and fifty miles from the Cape, and called Saint Helena, howbeit we could not land there. [...] And after we left the island of Saint Helena, we saw another island two hundred miles from there, which is called Ascension".

Also, Lopo Homem-Reineis published the "Atlas Universal" about 1519 which clearly showed the locations of St Helena and Ascension. The first residents all arrived on Portuguese vessels. Its first known permanent resident was Portuguese, Fernão Lopez who had turned traitor in India and had been mutilated by order of Albuquerque, the Governor of Goa. Fernando Lopez preferred being marooned to returning to Portugal in his maimed condition, and lived on Saint Helena from about 1516. By royal command, Lopez returned to Portugal about 1526 and then travelled to Rome, where Pope Clement VII granted him an audience. Lopez returned to Saint Helena, where he died in 1545.

When the island was discovered, it was covered with unique (indigenous) vegetation. Claims that on discovery the island "was entirely covered with forests, the trees drooping over the tremendous precipices that overhang the sea" have been questioned. It is argued that the presence of an endemic plover and several endemic insects adapted to the barren and arid coastal portions of the island are strong indications that these conditions existed before the island was discovered. Nevertheless, St Helena certainly once had a rich and dense inland forest. The loss of endemic vegetation, birds and other fauna, much of it within the first 50 years of discovery, can be attributed to the impact of humans and their introduction of goats, pigs, dogs, cats, rats as well as the introduction of non-endemic birds and vegetation into the island.

Sometime before 1557, two slaves from Mozambique, one from Java, and two women, escaped from a ship and remained hidden on the island for many years, long enough for their numbers to rise to twenty. Bermudez, the Patriarch of Abyssinia landed at St Helena in 1557 on a voyage to Portugal, remaining on the island for a year. Three Japanese ambassadors on an embassy to the Pope also visited St Helena in 1583.

Strong circumstantial evidence supports the idea that Sir Francis Drake located the island on the final lap of his circumnavigation of the world (1577–1580). It is suspected this explains how the location of the island was certainly known to the English only a few years later, for example, William Barrett (who died in 1584 as English consul at Aleppo, Syria) stated the island was “sixteene degrees to the South”, which is precisely the correct latitude. Again, it is also clear that the Elizabethan adventurer Edward Fenton at the very least knew the approximate location of the island in 1582.

It therefore seems unlikely that when Thomas Cavendish arrived in 1588 during his first attempt to circumnavigate the world, he was the first Englishman to land at the island. He stayed for 12 days and described the valley (initially called Chapel Valley) where Jamestown is situated as “a marvellous fair and pleasant valley, wherein divers handsome buildings and houses were set up, and especially one which was a church, which was tiled, and whitened on the outside very fair, and made with a porch, and within the church at the upper end was set an alter.... This valley is the fairest and largest low plot in all the island, and it is marvellous sweet and pleasant, and planted in every place with fruit trees or with herbs.... There are on this island thousands of goats, which the Spaniards call cabritos, which are very wild: you shall sometimes see one or two hundred of them together, and sometimes you may behold them going in a flock almost a mile long.”

Another English seaman, Captain Abraham Kendall, visited Saint Helena in 1591, and in 1593 Sir James Lancaster stopped at the island on his way home from the East. Once St Helena’s location was more widely known, English ships of war began to lie in wait in the area to attack Portuguese India carracks on their way home. As a result, in 1592 Philip II of Spain and I of Portugal (1527–1598) ordered the annual fleet returning from Goa on no account to touch at St Helena. In developing their Far East trade, the Dutch also began to frequent the island. One of their first visits was in 1598 when an expedition of two vessels piloted by John Davis (English explorer) attacked a large Spanish Caravel, only to be beaten off and forced to retreat to Ascension Island for repairs. The Italian merchant Francesco Carletti, claimed in his autobiography he was robbed by the Dutch when sailing on a Portuguese ship in 1602.

The Portuguese and Spanish soon gave up regularly calling at the island, partly because they used ports along the West African coast, but also because of attacks on their shipping, desecration to their chapel and images, destruction of their livestock and destruction of plantations by Dutch and English sailors. In 1603 Lancaster again visited Saint Helena on his return from the first voyage equipped by the British East India Company. In 1610, by which time most Dutch and English ships visited the island on their home voyage, François Pyrard de Laval deplored the deterioration since his last visit in 1601, describing damage to the chapel and destruction of fruit trees by cutting down trees to pick the fruit. Whilst Thomas Best, commander of the tenth British East India Company expedition reported plentiful supplies of lemons in 1614, only 40 lemon trees were observed by the traveller Peter Mundy in 1634.

The Dutch Republic formally made claim to St Helena in 1633, although there is no evidence that they ever occupied, colonised or fortified it. A Dutch territorial stone, undated but certainly later than 1633, is presently kept in the island’s archive office. By 1651, the Dutch had mainly abandoned the island in favour of their colony founded at the Cape of Good Hope.

East India Company, 1658–1815

The idea for the English to make claim to the island was first made in a 1644 pamphlet by Richard Boothby. By 1649, the East India Company ordered all homeward-bound vessels to wait for one another at St Helena and in 1656 onward the Company petitioned the government to send a man-of-war to convoy the fleet home from there. Having been granted a charter to govern the island by the Lord Protector of the Commonwealth Oliver Cromwell in 1657, the following year the Company decided to fortify and colonise St Helena with planters. A fleet commanded by Captain John Dutton (first governor, 1659–1661) in the Marmaduke arrived at St Helena in 1659. It is from this date that St Helena claims to be Britain’s second oldest colony (after Bermuda). A fort, originally named the Castle of St John, was completed within a month and further houses were built further up the valley. It soon became obvious that the island could not be made self-sufficient and in early 1658, the East India Company ordered all homecoming ships to provide one ton of rice on their arrival at the island.

With the restoration of the monarchy in 1660, the fort was renamed James Fort, the town Jamestown and the valley James Valley, all in honour of the Duke of York, later James II of England. The East India Company immediately sought a Royal Charter, possibly to give their occupation of St Helena legitimacy. This was issued in 1661 and gave the Company the sole right to fortify and colonise the island “in such legal and reasonable manner the said Governor and Company should see fit”. Each planter was allocated one of 130 pieces of land, but the Company had great difficulty attracting new immigrants, the population falling to only 66 including 18 slaves by 1670. John Dutton’s successors as governor, Robert Stringer (1661–1670) and Richard Coney (1671–1672), repeatedly warned the Company of unrest amongst the inhabitants, Coney complaining the inhabitants were drunks and ne’er-do-wells. In 1672 Coney was seized by rebellious members of the island’s council and shipped back to England. Coincidentally, the Company had already sent a replacement governor, Anthony Beale (1672–1673).

Finding that the cape was not the ideal harbour they originally envisaged, the Dutch East India Company launched an armed invasion of St Helena from the Cape colony over Christmas 1672. Governor Beale was forced to abandon the island in a Company ship, sailing to Brazil where he hired a fast ship. This he used to locate an East India Company flotilla sent to reinforce St Helena with fresh troops. The island was retaken in May 1673 without loss of life and reinforced with 250 troops. The same year the Company petitioned a new Charter from Charles II of England and this granted the island free title as though it was a part of England “in the same manner as East Greenwich in the County of Kent”. Acknowledging that St Helena was a place where there was no trade, the Company was permitted to send from England any provisions free of Customs and to convey as many settlers as required.

In 1674 Richard Keigwin (1673–1674), the next acting governor, was seized by discontented settlers and troops and was only rescued by the lucky arrival of an East India Company fleet under the command of Captain William Basse. By 1675, the part-time recruitment of settlers in a Militia enabled the permanent garrison to be reduced to 50 troops. Edmund Halley was a visitor the following year, observing the positions of 341 stars in the Southern hemisphere. Amongst the most significant taxes levied on imports was a requirement for all ships trading with Madagascar to deliver one slave. Slaves were also brought from Asia by incoming shipping. Thus, most slaves came from Madagascar and Asia rather than the African mainland. By 1679, the number of slaves had risen to about 80. An uprising by soldiers and planters in 1684 during the governorship of John Blackmore (1678–1689) led to the death of three mutineers in an attack on Fort James and the later execution of four others. The formation of the Grand Alliance and outbreak of war against France in 1698 meant that for several years ships from Asia avoided the island for fear of being attacked by French men-of-war. Soldiers at the end of their service thereby had restricted opportunities to obtain a passage back to Britain. Governor Joshua Johnson (1690–1693) also prevented soldiers smuggling themselves aboard ships by ordering all outgoing ships to leave only during daylight hours. This led to a mutiny in 1693 in which a group of mutineer soldiers seized a ship and made their escape, during the course of which Governor Johnson was killed. Meanwhile, savage punishment was meted out to slaves during this period, some being burnt alive and others starved to death. Rumours of an uprising by slaves in 1694 led to the gruesome execution of three slaves and cruel punishment of many others.

The clearance of the indigenous forest for the distillation of spirits, tanning and agricultural development began to lead to shortage of wood by the 1680s. The numbers of rats and goats had reached plague proportions by the 1690’s, leading to the destruction of food crops and young tree shoots. Neither an increase on duty on the locally produced arrack nor a duty on all firewood helped reduce the deforestation whilst attempts to reforest the island by governor John Roberts (1708–1711) were not followed up by his immediate successors. The Great Wood, which once extended from Deadwood Plain to Prosperous Bay Plain, was reported in 1710 as not having a single tree left standing. An early mention of the problems of soil erosion was made in 1718 when a waterspout broke over Sandy Bay, on the southern coast. Against the background of this erosion, several years of drought and the general dependency of St Helena, in 1715 governor Isaac Pyke (1714–1719) made the serious suggestion to the Company that appreciable savings could be made by moving the population to Mauritius, evacuated by the French in 1710. However, with the outbreak of war with other European countries, the Company continued to subsidise the island because of its strategic location. An ordinance was passed in 1731 to preserve the woodlands through the reduction in the goat population. Despite the clear connection between deforestation and the increasing number of floods (in 1732, 1734, 1736, 1747, 1756 and 1787) the East India Company’s Court of Directors gave little support to efforts by governors to eradicate the goat problem. Rats were observed in 1731 building nests in trees two feet across, a visitor in 1717 commenting that the vast number of wild cats preferred to live off young partridges than the rats. An outbreak of plague in 1743 was attributed to the release of infected rats from ships arriving from India. By 1757, soldiers were employed in killing the wild cats.

William Dampier called into St Helena in 1691 at the end of his first of three circumnavigations of the world and stated Jamestown comprised 20–30 small houses built with rough stones furnished with mean furniture. These houses were only occupied when ships called at the island because their owners were all employed on their plantations further in the island. He described how women born on the island “very earnestly desired to be released from that Prison, having no other way to compass this but by marrying Seamen of Passengers that touch here”.

Following commercial rivalries between the original English East India Company and a New East India Company created in 1698, a new Company was formed in 1708 by amalgamation, and entitled the “United Company of Merchants of England, trading to the East Indies”. St Helena was then transferred to this new United East India Company. The same year, extensive work began to build the present Castle. Because of a lack of cement, mud was used as the mortar for many buildings, most of which had deteriorated into a state of ruin. In a search for lime on the island, a soldier in 1709 claimed to have discovered gold and silver deposits in Breakneck Valley. For a short period, it is believed that almost every able-bodied man was employed in prospecting for these precious metals. The short-lived Breakneck Valley Gold Rush ended with the results of an assay of the deposits in London, showing that they were iron pyrites.

A census in 1723 showed that out of a total population 1,110, some 610 were slaves. In 1731, a majority of tenant planters successfully petitioned governor Edward Byfield (1727–1731) for the reduction of the goat population. The next governor, Isaac Pyke (1731–1738), had a tyrannical reputation but successfully extended tree plantations, improved fortifications and transformed the garrison and militia into a reliable force for the first time. In 1733 Green Tipped Bourbon Coffee seeds were brought from the coffee port of Mocha in Yemen, on a Company ship The Houghton and were planted at various locations around the Island where the plants flourished, despite general neglect.

Robert Jenkins, of “Jenkins Ear” fame (governor 1740–1742) embarked on a programme of eliminating corruption and improving the defences. The island’s first hospital was built on its present site in 1742. Governor Charles Hutchinson (1747–1764) tackled the neglect of crops and livestock and also brought the laws of the island closer to those in England. Nevertheless, racial discrimination continued and it was not until 1787 that the black population were allowed to give evidence against whites. In 1758 three French warships were seen lying off the island in wait for the Company’s India fleet. In an inconclusive battle, these were engaged by warships from the Company’s China fleet. Nevil Maskelyne and Robert Waddington set up an observatory in 1761 to observe the transit of Venus, following a suggestion first made by Halley. In the event, observations were obscured by cloud. Most of the cattle were destroyed this year through an unidentified sickness.

Attempts by governor John Skottowe (1764–1782) to regularise the sale of arrack and punch led to some hostility and desertions by a number of troops who stole boats and were probably mostly lost at sea — however, at least one group of seven soldiers and a slave succeeded in escaping to Brazil in 1770. It was from about this date that the island began, for the first time, to enjoy a prolonged period of prosperity. The first Parish Church in Jamestown had been showing signs of decay for many years, and finally a new building was erected in 1774. St James’ is now the oldest Anglican church south of the Equator. Captain James Cook visited the island in 1775 on the final leg of his second circumnavigation of the world.

An order by governor Daniel Corneille (1782–1787) banning garrison troops and sailors from punch-taverns, only allowing them to drink at army canteens, led to a mutiny over Christmas 1787 when some 200 troops skirmished with loyal troops over a three day period. Ninety-nine mutineers were condemned to death and were then decimated whereby lots were drawn, with one in every ten being shot and executed. Saul Solomon is believed to have arrived at the island about 1790, where he eventually formed the Solomon’s company, initially based at an emporium, today occupied by the Rose and Crown shop. Captain Bligh arrived at St Helena in 1792 during his second attempt to ship a cargo of bread-fruit trees to Jamaica.

In 1795 governor Robert Brooke (1787–1801) was alerted that the French had overrun the Netherlands, forcing the Dutch to become their allies. Some 411 troops were sent from the garrison to support General Sir James Craig in his successful capture of the Dutch colony at the Cape of Good Hope. As a result of a policy of recruiting time-expired soldiers calling at the island on their voyage home from India, the St Helena Regiment was built up to 1,000 men by 1800. At the same time, every able-bodied man joined the island’s militia. Fortifications were improved and a new system of visual signalling introduced. The importation of slaves was made illegal in 1792. An outbreak of measles was caused by the arrival of a fleet of ships in January 1807, leading to the death of 102 "Blacks" (probably under-reported in church records) and 58 "whites" in the two months to May Since most slaves were owned by the wealthier town dwellers, governor Robert Patton (1802–1807) recommended that Company import Chinese labour to supplement the rural workforce. These arrived in 1810, their numbers rising to about 600 by 1818, many were allowed to stay on after 1836 and their descendents became integrated into the population.

Action taken by governor Alexander Beatson (1808–1813) to reduce drunkenness by prohibiting the public sale of spirits and the importation of cheap Indian spirits resulted in a mutiny by about 250 troops in December 1811. After surrendering to loyal troops, nine leading mutineers were executed. Under the aegis of governor Mark Wilks (1813–1816) farming methods were improved, a rebuilding programme initiated and the first public library opened. A census in 1814 showed the number of inhabitants was 3,507.
British rule 1815–1821, and Napoleon's exile
In 1815 the British government selected Saint Helena as the place of detention of Napoleon Bonaparte. He was brought to the island in October 1815 and lodged at Longwood, where he died on 5 May 1821. During this period the island was strongly garrisoned by regular British regimental troops and by the local St Helena Regiment, with naval shipping circling the island. Agreement was reached that St Helena would remain in the East India Company’s possession, with the British government meeting additional costs arising from guarding Napoleon. The East India Company Governor, Sir Hudson Lowe (1816–1821), was appointed by and directly reported to Lord Bathurst, the Secretary for War and the Colonies, in London. Brisk business was enjoyed catering for the additional 2,000 troops and personnel on the island over the six-year period, although restrictions placed against ships landing during this period posed a challenge for local traders to import the necessary goods.

The 1817 census recorded 821 white inhabitants, a garrison of 820 men, 618 Chinese indentured labourers, 500 free blacks and 1,540 slaves. In 1818, whilst admitting that nowhere in the world did slavery exist in a milder form than on St Helena, Lowe initiated the first step in emancipating the slaves by persuading slave owners to give all slave children born after Christmas of that year their freedom once they had reached their late teens. Solomon Dickson & Taylor issued £147-worth of copper halfpenny tokens sometime before 1821 to enhance local trade.

British East India Company, 1821–1834

After Napoleon's death the thousands of temporary visitors were soon withdrawn. The East India Company resumed full control of Saint Helena and life returned to the pre-1815 standards, the fall in population causing a sharp change in the economy. The next governors, Thomas Brooke (temporary governor, 1821–1823) and Alexander Walker (1823–1828), successfully brought the island through this post-Napoleonic period with the opening of a new farmer’s market in Jamestown, the foundation of an Agricultural and Horticultural Society and improvements in education. In 1832 the East India Company abolished slavery in St Helena (freeing 614 slaves), a year before legislation to ban slavery in the colonies was passed by Parliament. An abortive attempt was made to set up a whaling industry in 1830 (also in 1875). Following praise of St Helena’s coffee given by Napoleon during his exile on the island, the product enjoyed a brief popularity in Paris during the years after his death.

British rule, a Crown colony, 1834–1981
The British Parliament passed the India Act in 1833, a provision of which transferred control of St Helena from the East India Company to the Crown with effect from 2 April 1834. In practice, the transfer did not take effect until 24 February 1836 when Major-General George Middlemore (1836–1842), the first governor appointed by the British government, arrived with 91st Regiment troops. He summarily dismissed St Helena Regiment and, following orders from London, embarked on a savage drive to cut administrative costs, dismissing most officers previously in the Company employ. This triggered the start of a long-term pattern whereby those who could afford to do so tended to leave the island for better fortunes and opportunities elsewhere. The population was to fall gradually from 6,150 in 1817 to less than 4,000 by 1890. Charles Darwin spent six days of observation on the island in 1836 during his return journey on HMS Beagle. Controversial figure, Dr. James Barry, also arrived that year as principal medical officer (1836–1837). In addition to reorganising the hospital, Barry highlighted the heavy incidence of venereal diseases in the civilian population, blaming the government for the removal of the St Helena Regiment, which resulted in destitute females resorting to prostitution.

In 1838 agreement was reached with Sultan of Lahej to permit a coaling station at Aden, thereby allowing the journey time to the Far East (via the Mediterranean, the Alexandria to Cairo overland crossing and the Red Sea) to be roughly halved compared with the traditional South Atlantic route. This precursor to the affects of the Suez Canal (1869), coupled with the advent of steam shipping that was not reliant on trade winds led to a gradual reduction in the number of ships calling at St Helena and to a decline in its strategic importance to Britain and economic fortunes. The number of ships calling at the island fell from 1,100 in 1855; to 853 in 1869; to 603 in 1879 and to only 288 in 1889.

In 1839, London coffee merchants Wm Burnie & Co described St Helena coffee as being of “very superior quality and flavour”. In 1840 the British Government deployed a naval station to suppress the African slave trade. The squadron was based at St Helena and a Vice Admiralty Court was based at Jamestown to try the crews of the slave ships. Most of these were broken up and used for salvage. Surviving slaves (about 10,000 between 1840–1874) were incarcerated to regain their health in Liberated African Depots at Rupert’s Bay, Lemon Valley and High Knoll. About a third of ex-slaves died and were buried at Rupert’s Bay. A few survivors were employed as servants or labourers, their descendants being absorbed into the population, representing the main source of African ethnicity. Most were shipped out to plantations on the West Indies, only a few returning to Africa. It was also in 1840 that the British government acceded to a French request for Napoleon’s body to be returned to France in what became known as the retour des cendres. The body, in excellent state of preservation, was exhumed on 15 October 1840 and ceremonially handed over to the Prince de Joinville in the French ship La Belle Poule.

A European Regiment, called the St Helena Regiment, comprising five companies was formed in 1842 for the purpose of garrisoning the island. William A Thorpe, the founder of the Thorpe business, was born on the island the same year. There was another outbreak of measles in 1843 and it was noted that none of those who survived the 1807 outbreak contracted the disease a second time. The first Baptist minister arrived from Cape Town in 1845. The same year, St Helena coffee was sold in London at 1d per pound, making it the most expensive and exclusive in the world. In 1846, St James church was considerably repaired, a steeple replacing the old tower. The same year, huge waves, or “rollers”, hit the island causing 13 ships anchored off Jamestown bay to be wrecked. The foundation stone for St Paul’s country church, also known as “The Cathedral”, was laid in 1850. Following instructions from London to achieve economies, Governor Thomas Gore Brown (1851–1856) further reduced the civil establishment. He also tackled the problems of overpopulation of Jamestown posed by the restrictions of the valley terrain by establishing a village at Rupert’s Bay. A census in 1851 showed a total of 6,914 inhabitants living on the island. In 1859 the Anglican Diocese of St Helena was set up for St Helena, including Ascension Island and Tristan da Cunha (initially also including the Falkland Islands, Rio de Janeiro and other towns along the east coast of South America), the first Bishop of St Helena arriving on the island that year. Islanders later complained that succeeding governors were mainly retired senior military officers with an undynamic approach to the job. St John’s church was built in upper Jamestown in 1857, one motivation being to counter the levels of vice and prostitution at that end of the town.

The following year, the lands forming the sites of Napoleon’s burial and of his home at Longwood House were vested in Napoleon III and his heirs and a French representative or consul has lived on the island ever since, the French flag now flying over these areas. The title deeds of Briars Pavilion, where Napoleon lived during his earliest period of exile, were much later given to the French Government in 1959.

St Helena coffee grown on the Bamboo Hedge Estate at Sandy Bay won a premier award at the Great Exhibition at the Crystal Palace in 1851. Saul Solomon was buried at St Helena in 1853. The first postage stamp was issued for the island in 1856, the six-pence blue, marking the start of considerable philatelic interest in the island.

By the 1860s it was apparent that wood sourced from some condemned slave ships (possibly a Brazilian ship) from the 1840s were infested by termites (“white ants”). Eating their way through house timbers (also documents) the termites caused the collapse of a number of buildings and considerable economic damage over several decades. Extensive reconstruction made use of iron rails and termite-proof timbers. The termite problem persists to the present day. The corner stone for St Matthew’s church at Hutt’s Gate was laid in 1861.

The withdrawal of the British naval station in 1864 and closure of the Liberated African Station ten years later (several hundred Africans were deported to Lagos and other places on the West African coast) resulted in a further deterioration in the economy. A small earthquake was recorded the same year. The gaol in Rupert’s Bay was destroyed and the Castle and Supreme Court were reconstructed in 1867. Cinchona plants were introduced in 1868 by Charles Elliot (1863–1870) with a view to exporting quinine but the experiment was abandoned by his successor Governor C. G. E. Patey (1870–1873), who also embarked on a programme of reducing the civil establishment. The latter action led to another phase of emigration from the island. An experiment in 1874 to produce flax from Phomium Tenax (New Zealand flax) failed (the cultivation of flax recommenced in 1907 and eventually became the island’s largest export). In 1871, the Royal Engineers constructed Jacob’s Ladder up the steep side of the valley from Jamestown to Knoll Mount Fort, with 700 steps, one step being covered over in later repairs. A census in 1881 showed 5,059 inhabitants lived on the island. Jonathan, claimed to be the world’s oldest tortoise, is thought to have arrived on the island in 1882.

An outbreak of measles in 1886 resulted in 113 cases and 8 deaths. Jamestown was lighted for the first time in 1888, the initial cost being born by the inhabitants. Dinuzulu kaCetshwayo, son of the Zulu king Cetshwayo, was exiled at St Helena between 1890 and 1897. Diphtheria broke out in 1887 and also in 1893 which, with an additional outbreak of whooping cough, led to the death of 31 children under 10. In 1890 a great fall of rock killed nine people in Jamestown, a fountain being erected in Main Street in their memory. A census in 1891 showed 4,116 inhabitants lived on the island. A submarine cable en-route to Britain from Cape Town was landed in November 1899 and extended to Ascension by December and was operated by the Eastern Telegraph Company. For the next two years over six thousand Boer prisoners were imprisoned at Deadwood and Broadbottom. The population reached its all-time record of 9,850 in 1901. Although a number of prisoners died, being buried at Knollcombes, the islanders and Boers developed a relationship of mutual respect and trust, a few Boers choosing to remain on the island when the war ended in 1902. A severe outbreak of influenza in 1900 led to the death of 3.3% of the population, although it affected neither the Boer prisoners nor the troops guarding them. An outbreak of whooping cough in 1903 infected most children on the island, although only one died as a result.

The departure of the Boers and later removal of the remaining garrison in 1906 (with the disbandment of the St Helena Volunteers, this was the first time the island was left without a garrison) both impacted on the island economy, which was only slightly offset by growing philatelic sales. The successful reestablishment of the flax industry in 1907 did much to counter these problems, generating considerable income during the war years. Lace making was encouraged as an island-industry during the pre-war period, initiated by Emily Jackson in 1890 and a lace-making school was opened in 1908. Two men, known as the Prosperous Bay Murderers, were hanged in 1905. A fish-canning factory opened in 1909 but failed due to an unusual shortage of fish that year. S.S. Papanui, en route from Britain to Australia with emigrants, arrived in James Bay in 1911 on fire. The ship burned out and sank, but its 364 passengers and crew were rescued and looked after on the island. A census in 1911 showed the population had fallen from its peak in 1901 to only 3,520 inhabitants. Some 4,800 rats tails were presented to the Government in 1913, who paid a penny per tail.

Islanders were made aware of their vulnerability to naval attack, despite extensive fortifications, following a visit by a fleet of three German super-dreadnoughts in January 1914. With the outbreak of World War I, the defunct St Helena Volunteer Corps was re-established. Some 46 islanders gave their lives in World War I. The 1918 world pandemic of influenza bypassed St Helena. The self-proclaimed Sultan of Zanzibar, Seyyid Khalid Bin Barghash, was exiled in St Helena from 1917 to 1921 before being transferred to the Seychelles.

William A. Thorpe was killed in an accident in 1918, his business continuing to operate on the island to the present day. In 1920 the Norwegian ship Spangereid caught fire and sank at her mooring at James Bay, depositing quantities of coal on the beach below the wharf. A census in 1921 showed the islands population was 3,747. The first islanders left to work at Ascension Island in 1921, which was made a dependency of St Helena in 1922. Thomas R. Bruce (postmaster 1898–1928) was the first islander to design a postage stamp, the 1922–1937 George V ship-design — this significantly contributed to island revenues for several years. South African coinage became legal tender in 1923, reflecting the high level of trade with that country. There were nine deaths from whooping cough between 1920 and 1929 and 2,200 cases of measles in 1932. The first car, an Austin 7, was imported into the island in 1929. A census in 1931 showed a population of 3,995 (and a goat population of nearly 1,500). Cable and Wireless absorbed the Eastern Telegraph Company in 1934. Tristan da Cunha was made a dependency of St Helena in 1938.

Some six islanders gave their lives during World War II. The German battle cruiser Admiral Graf Spee was observed passing the island in 1939 and the British oil tanker Darkdale was torpedoed off Jamestown bay. As part of the Lend-Lease agreement, America built Wideawake airport on Ascension in 1942, but no military use was made of St Helena. As in the previous war, the island enjoyed increased revenues through the sale of flax.

There were 217 cases of poliomyelitis, including 11 deaths, in 1945. A census in 1946 showed 4,748 inhabitants lived on the island. In 1948 there were seven deaths from whooping cough and 77 hospital admissions from acute nephritis. In 1951, mumps attacked 90% of the population. Solomon’s became a limited company the same year. Flax prices continued to rise after the war, rising to their zenith in 1951. However, this St Helena staple industry fell into decline because of competition from synthetic fibres and also because the delivered price of the island’s flax was substantially higher than world prices. The decision by a major buyer, the British Post Office, to use synthetic fibres for their mailbags was a major blow, all of which contributed in the closure of the island's flax mills in 1965. Many acres of land are still covered with flax plants. A census in 1956 showed the population had fallen only slightly, to 4,642. 1957 witnessed the arrival of three Bahrain princes as prisoners of Britain, who remained until released by a writ of habeas corpus in 1960. Another attempt to cooperate a fish cannery led to closure in 1957. From 1958, the Union Castle shipping line gradually reduced their service calls to the island. The same year, there were 36 cases of poliomyelitis. A census in 1966 showed a relatively unchanged population of 4,649 inhabitants.

A South African company (The South Atlantic Trading and Investment Corporation, SATIC) bought a majority share in Solomon and Company in 1968. Following several years of losses and to avoid the economic effects of a closure of the company, the St Helena government eventually bought a majority share in the company in 1974. In 1969 the first elections were held under the new constitution for twelve-member Legislative Council. By 1976, the population had grown slightly to 5,147 inhabitants. Based from Avonmouth, Curnow Shipping replaced the Union-Castle Line mailship service in 1977, using the RMS St Helena, a coastal passenger and cargo vessel that had been used between Vancouver and Alaska. Due to structural weakness, the spire of St James church was demolished in 1980. The endemic flowering shrub, the St Helena Ebony, believed to have been extinct for over a century, was discovered on the island in 1981.

1981 to present
The British Nationality Act 1981 reclassified St Helena and the other crown colonies as British Dependent Territories. The islanders lost their status as 'Citizens of the United Kingdom and Colonies' (as defined in the British Nationality Act 1948) and were stripped of their right of abode in Britain. For the next 20 years, many could find only low-paid work with the island government and the only available employment overseas for the islanders was restricted to the Falkland Islands and Ascension Island, a period during which the island was often referred to as the “South Atlantic Alcatraz”.

The RMS St Helena was requisitioned in 1982 by the Ministry of Defence to help in support of the Falklands Conflict, and sailed south with the entire crew volunteering for duty. The ship was involved in supporting minesweeper operations but the volunteers were refused South Atlantic Medals. Prince Andrew began his relationship with St Helena in 1984 with a visit to the island as a member of the armed forces.

The 1987 census showed that the island population stood at 5,644. The Development & Economic Planning Department, which still operates, was formed in 1988 to contribute to raising the living standards of the people of St Helena by planning and managing sustainable economic development through education, participation and planning, improving decision making by providing statistical information and by improving the safety and operation of the wharf and harbour operations. After decades of planning, the realisation of the three-tier school system began in 1988 under the aegis of the Head of Education, Basil George, when the Prince Andrew School was opened for all pupils of 12 onwards. Middle schools would take the 8 to 12 year old children and the First schools from 5 year olds.

Prince Andrew launched the replacement RMS St Helena in 1989 at Aberdeen. The vessel was specially built for the Cardiff–Cape Town route, and featured a mixed cargo/passenger layout. At the same time, a shuttle service between St Helena and Ascension was planned, for the many Saint Helenians working there and on the Falklands. In 1995 the decision was made to base the ship from Cape Town and limit the number of trips to the UK to just four a year.

The 1988 St Helena Constitution took effect in 1989 and provided that the island would be governed by a Governor and Commander-in-Chief, and an Executive and Legislative Council. The Executive Council members would be elected for nomination by the elected members of the Legislative Council, and subsequently appointed by the Governor and could only be removed from office by the votes of a majority of the five members of the Legislative Council. The Legislative Council Members would be re-elected by the voters every four years. With few exceptions the Governor would be obliged to abide by the advice given to him by the Executive Council. Five Council Committees would be made up from the membership of the Legislative Council and civil servants so that at any time there would always be a majority of elected members. The five Chairpersons of these committees would comprise the elected membership of the Executive Council.

The Bishop’s Commission on Citizenship was established at the Fifteenth Session of Diocesan Synod in 1992 with the aim of restoring full citizenship of the islanders and restore the right of abode in the UK. Research began (Prof. T. Charlton) in 1993, two years before its introduction on the island and five years after, to measure the influence that television has on the behaviour of children in classrooms and school playgrounds. This concluded that the island children continued to be hard working and very well behaved and that family and community social controls were more important in shaping children's behaviour than exposure to television. The Island of St Helena Coffee Company was founded in 1994 by David Henry and continues to operate independently from the island Government. Using Green Tipped Bourbon Coffee plants imported in 1733, crops are grown on several sites, including the Bamboo Hedge Estate Sandy Bay estate used for the 1851 Great Exhibition entry. In 1997, the acute employment problem at St Helena was brought to the attention of the British public following reports in the tabloid press of a “riot” following an article in the Financial Times describing how the Governor, David Smallman (1995–1999), was jostled by a small crowd who believed he and the Foreign Office had rejected plans to build an airport on the island.

Hong Kong was handed back to China in 1997, and the same year the British government published a review of the Dependent Territories. This included a commitment to restore the pre-1981 status for citizenship. This was effected by the British Overseas Territories Act 2002, which restored full passports to the islanders, and renamed the Dependent Territories the British Overseas Territories. The St Helena National Trust was also formed the same year with the aim of promoting the island's unique environmental and culture heritage. A full census in February 1998 showed the total population (including the RMS) was 5,157 persons.

In a vote held in January 2002, a majority of islanders (at home and abroad) voted in favour for an airport to be built. The island’s two-floor museum situated in a building near the base of Jacob’s Ladder was opened the same year and is operated by the St Helena Heritage Society. The Bank of St Helena, located next to the Post Office, commenced operations in 2004, inheriting the assets and accounts of the former St Helena Government Savings and the Ascension Island Savings Banks, both of which then ceased to exist. In April 2005 the British Government announced plans to construct an airport on Saint Helena to bolster the Island's economy, and reduce the dependence on boats to supply the Island. Impregilo S.p.A. of Milan have been selected as the preferred tender to design, build and operate the airport, which is currently expectedto be open in 2012/13, although final UK ministerial approval was still not been given. The following December, DfID announced they and the "Treasury are in continuing discussions about issues of concern regarding access to St Helena. As a result, there will be a pause in negotiations over the St Helena airport contract". This is widely interpreted as meaning the project is in abeyance, probably for a number of years until the UK's economy recovers. In March 2009, DfID announced the launch of a new consultation on options for access to the island. In a parliamentary debate in which DfID were accused of delaying tactics, the ministry accepted the conclusion in their 2005 Access document but argued good fiscal management required this to be re-reviewed. In December 2008, the British Government decided not to go ahead with the long-promised airport. If and when the airport eventually goes ahead, the Royal Mail ship will cease operations when flights begin.

A census held in February 2008 showed the population (including the RMS) had fallen to 4,255. In the first half of 2008, areas of the cliff above the wharf were stabilised from rock falls with netting at a cost of approximately £3 million. On 14 August, about 200 tons of rock fell from the west side of Jamestown severely damaging the Baptist chapel and surrounding buildings. Plans are in hand to net the most dangerous sections of the mountains either side of Jamestown over the period to 2015 at an estimated cost of about £15 million. A comparative review of the different sources for the history of St Helena has been published on the St Helena Institute web site.
British and other Royal visitors
One commentator has observed that, notwithstanding the high unemployment resulting from the loss of full passports during 1981–2002, the level of loyalty to the British monarchy by the St Helena population is probably not exceeded in any other part of the world. The first royal visit is speculated to have been by Prince Rupert (1619–1682), probably on his voyage home in India. No contemporary documents exist, but no other explanation has been given for naming Rupert’s Bay, adjacent to Jamestown. The Prince de Joinville arrived in 1840 to return the body of Napoleon I to France. Alfred, Duke of Edinburgh, visited the island in 1860 en-route to Tristan Da Cunha. The Empress Eugenie (widow of Napoleon III) arrived in 1880 and the same year Prince Albert William Heinrich of Prussia arrived in a German frigate. The Duke of Connaught arrived in 1911 on his journey back from Cape Town. The Prince of Wales, later King Edward VIII, visited in 1925. King George VI is the only reigning monarch to visit the island. This was in 1947 when the King, accompanied by Queen Elizabeth (later the Queen Mother), Princess Elizabeth (later Queen Elizabeth II) and Princess Margaret were travelling to South Africa. Prince Philip arrived at St Helena in 1957 and then his son Prince Andrew visited as a member of the armed forces in 1984 and his sister the Princess Royal arrived in 2002. The last serving British Ministerial visit was in 1699.

History of the media in St Helena
The St Helena Press was set up by Saul Soloman in 1806 and produced a number of publications including the Government Gazette (from 1807) and the St Helena Monthly Register (from 1809), both government funded publications. The press was taken over after the departure of governor Alexander Beatson (1808 – 1813), and was mainly used for government notices and regulations. The first of an occasional series St Helena Almanack and Annual Registers was published with the press in 1842 (the last and most comprehensive edition being published in 1913).

The St Helena Advocate and Weekly Journal of News, published in 1851, was the first island newspaper, but closed two years later mainly due to competition from the government-funded St Helena Chronicle (1852). This short publication period was a fate suffered by most island newspapers. The St Helena Herald was published from 1853 but ceased publication in 1860 when the editor launched a new paper, the St Helena Record. This closed in 1861 and was immediately replaced by the longest running paper, the St Helena Guardian (weekly, 1861–1925). The proprietor of the latter, Benjamin Grant, also published the St Helena Advertiser (1865–1866).

Two other newspapers published about this time, the St Helena Advertiser, the St Helena Star (1866–1867) and St Helena Spectator (1866–1868) both closed because of the lack of printing facilities. Two humorous papers, The Bug (1888) and the Mosquito (1888) were similarly short-lived. Several shortlived papers also appeared a few years later – the St Helena Times (1889), the Monthly Critic and Flashman (1895) and the St Helena Observer. De Krisgsgevangenewas, a censored Dutch newspaper, was published for Boer prisoners from 1901.

The St Helena Church News was published from 1888, the Parish Magazine from 1889, the Diocesan Magazine from 1901 and the Jamestown Monthly from 1912 The latter was renamed the St Helena Church Magazine and was published until 1945 by Canon Wallcot, who extended news coverage from church matters to also include island news after the closure of the St Helena Guardian. The government-funded St Helena Wirebird was published in the early 1960’s, closing in 1965. The government-funded St Helena News Review and the St Helena News followed this. Between 1990 and 1991, the New Wirebird was published independently.

Radio St Helena started operations on Christmas Day 1967, transmissions being limited to the island apart from occasional short-wave broadcasts. The station presents news, features and music in collaboration with its sister newspaper, the St Helena Herald, published by the partially publicly funded St Helena News Media Services (SHNMS) since 2000. The non-government funded Saint FM Radio officially launched in January 2005. The station currently broadcasts news, features and music across the island, Ascension, the Falklands and worldwide over the internet in collaboration with its sister newspaper, the St Helena Independent (published since November 2005). Both the Herald and Independent are can be read worldwide via the internet. Cable and Wireless currently rebroadcast television throughout the island via three DStv channels of entertainment.

In October 2008, the St Helena Government announced that island’s media must choose whether they obtained revenue from government subsidies or from advertising. They could not do both. On this basis, the partly publicly subsidised Media Services, which publish the St Helena Herald and broadcast on Radio St Helena, would no longer be allowed to run advertisements. Simultaneously, the St Helena Independent and Saint FM announced that they would need to increase advertising rates, which barely covered the cost of producing adverts.

SAINT HELENA: SAINT HELENA OF CONSTANTINOPLE

2009-11-11T05:41:00.000-08:00

JAMESTOWN, THE CAPITAL

FLAG OF ST HELENA

MAP OF ST. HELENA

Saint Helena, named after St Helena of Constantinople, is an island of volcanic origin in the South Atlantic Ocean. It is part of the British overseas territory of Saint Helena, Ascension and Tristan da Cunha which also includes Ascension Island and the islands of Tristan da Cunha. The island has a history of over 500 years since it was first discovered as an uninhabited island by the Portuguese in 1502. Britain's second oldest remaining colony (after Bermuda), Saint Helena is one of the most isolated islands in the world and was for several centuries of vital strategic importance to ships sailing to Europe from Asia and South Africa. For several centuries, the British used the island as a place of exile, most notably for Napoleon Bonaparte, Dinuzulu kaCetshwayo and over 5,000 Boer prisoners.